Haven’t been making focaccia for a while. Why? For some reasons and for a long time, the focaccia have not turned out as well as I’ve expected. However, I believe with some attention and research, I can make a better focaccia. So, I set out to do just that with the help of Ken Forkish’s Flour Water Salt Yeast.
The focaccia dough is no different from a pizza or bread dough. There are the same four basic ingredients: flour, water, salt and yeast. Starting with a same-day dough, a straight dough using yeast seems to be the most expeditious way to go. The percentage of salt is normally about 2% across the board for focaccia, pizza or bread. That leaves the age-old question regarding the ratio between flour and water, i.e. the hydration level.
For the most part, you bake a pizza on a pizza stone while a focaccia is baked in a pan. The difference for having the structure of a pan is the ease of handling every step of the way — from shaping to loading the focaccia dough in an oven, and without using a peel. That makes life so much easier for the baker. Similarly, it opens up the opportunity for focaccia to work at a higher hydration level and to incorporate a greater amount of whole wheat and other lower-protein flours.
Assuming we are making a small focaccia in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, we can start mixing the dough with 300 grams of all-purpose flour. Then add 210 ml of water (at 70% hydration level). Mix until the flour is incorporated. (Most pizza recipes have close to 65% hydration, while white bread recipes may often push hydration in excess of 80%.)
The plan is to mix the focaccia dough in the morning and bake it for dinner. Not unlike to basic bread-making methodology, an half-hour autolyse is beneficial for dough development.
After autolyse, add salt (6 grams), a sprinkle of yeast and 10-20 grams of water (or as much as you’re comfortable in handling) to the dough. With wet fingers, work the salt into the dough. At this stage, the dough should be slippery and soft and very malleable. Rest the dough in a covered bowl or container.
To add strength to the dough, perform one round of stretch and fold after 30-45 minutes. (With moistened hand, reach underneath the dough and pull out about one-quarter of it out and up to stretch it until you feel resistance. Then fold it over the top to the other side of the dough. Repeat four or five times, making a full rotation of the container, until the dough has tightened into a ball. Grab the entire ball, invert it with seam side down. The top of the dough should be smooth. With each fold, the dough firms up a bit.)
Let the dough rest for the an additional five to six hours (depending on the ambience temperature in your room) in the covered container. Call that bulk fermentation and allow the dough to double in size.
Gently take the dough out of the container and shape the dough into balls (about 300 grams each). Use your hand to lightly oil the tops of the dough balls, or simply dust the tops with flour. Cover with plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes, then put into the refrigerator to chill out. It’s important to give the dough balls at least an hour to relax before forming the focaccia.
“Overproofing is not an issue with focaccia. In fact, overproofing allows the focaccia dough to spread out into shape more easily and hold the finger dents where you want them.”
~ Ken Forkish
If you’re not ready to bake on the same day, refrigerate the dough balls. You can also store the shaped dough balls in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Heat the oven to 525°F, or to the highest temperature your oven allows. (The focaccia will take longer at lower baking temperature.)
Because these doughs are a bit sticky, you need to toss each dough ball, top and bottom, in flour before you begin to shape it so it doesn’t stick to your hands. Spread the dough out all the way to the edge of the 12-inch cast-iron skillet (or a small baking sheet). Drizzle olive oil over the focaccia. Meanwhile, form dimples all over the focaccia with bent fingers and allow the olive oil to pool among them. Use both hands, if you like. One hand doesn’t have to have all the fun!
Transfer the pan into the oven. Bake until the focaccia turns golden brown, about 15 minutes.
Drizzle extra-virgin olive oil over the top if you like, along with any other seasonings, such as small-flake sea salt and finely chopped fresh rosemary, my favorite. Serve right away.
However, do note most focaccia is very good served at room temperature. It’s fine to bake it up to 1 hour ahead of time.
What makes this focaccia work? Basically, start with autolysing a wet and sticky dough, followed by a long bulk fermentation and an extended proofing, and finally, a very hot oven. Let time work its magic!
When I put these steps into action, I get a focaccia that’s fully developed in texture and flavor. More than that, I have a new appreciation for the versatility and flexibility of the dough. Use any kinds of flour and load it with multiple toppings, the focaccia can easily and capably accommodate whatever you want it to do. It’s a beautiful thing!
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